Thesis

Whohoo!!! I got three signatures and turned in my masters thesis today. What a relief. Thanks to everyone who listened to me moan and groan about it over the years.

Thats a wrap: I'm coming home

     The writers' guild of America is on strike so scripts that are not complete cannot continue to be worked on. Oliver Stone, the director of Pinkville, likes to re-work his scripts as he goes along but hes not allowed to work on his script while the strike goes on because he is also a member of the writers' guild. So, with Stone already in Thailand and the rest of the crew and cast about to join him, they have called off production of the movie. If filming weren't supposed to start so soon they might have waited a bit - but I was supposed to report for boot camp on Nov 26 and filming was supposed to start soon after that. There goes my plan for world domination (actor>governor of California (native born)>president).

      I'm making fun but I'm really bummed. You all know how much I love movies. Tp be on the set of an Oliver Stone movie would have been awesome. And three weeks of boot camp sounded like a weird pain in the ass and amazing experience at the same time. Then there was the chance I'd have wound up with a number of lines greater than say, 10, and I was counting the dollars and dreaming of a new Civic...you see I wasn't that wide eyed.

     So....I'm homeward bound and I will be spending thanksgiving in the comfortable realm of my Cathay Pacific economy class seat (I had a window seat reserved for my original flight. I can't believe I was able to get an aisle seat only one day before my new flight). It wasn't that bad on the way here. It's just so damn long.

Next time from LA...where I will be turning in my thesis

Thailand pictures 2

Thailand

How I participated in a Thai wedding procession and got cast in an Oliver Stone film

     It all started with the fan in our room in Sangkhlaburi. It wouldn't turn off. I turned the knob to every position and the fan kept blowing. It was 4.30 in the morning and I was awake because this oscillating fan kept blowing at me. I went outside to walk to the bathroom and decided to stay up and watch the sunrise. It was beautiful and I fiddled with the aperture settings of my camera for a bit. When the sun had fully risen I walked off of the grounds of the guesthouse, turning right onto the road at the end of the guesthouse driveway, toward some obnoxiously loud music given the time of day. Along the way I passed passed the occasional large solid house amongst mostly small, bamboo homes. These were one or two rooms large, with laundry hanging everywhere. The music was coming from what I presumed was a restaurant. It had a fair bit of outside seating and some blaringly loud six-foot tall speaker stacks. Past this restaurant - no one was eating - there were several boys aged about 10-12 playing with spinning tops. When one of their tops spun towards and then past me, I went and picked it and gave it to its owner. A minute later one of the boys offered his top to me so that I could try it. He showed me how to position the bottle cap tied to the end of the string between my fingers so that when I threw the top it would unwind along the string rather than be thrown through the air. I wasn't a very good top spinner. The two times I tried the top landed on its side and went spinning away. Some of the boys could pick their tops up, still spinning, with the unwound string and get them to land on their palms. I took a lot of pictures and the boys rejoiced when I showed them the pictures on the screen of my camera. After I was there for about 10 minutes a woman came over and led the boys away, presumably to school.

      I continued down the street, passing bamboo homes in which there was the occasional television, outside of which there was always laundry. Women and some men appeared to be working around the house. One man was tending to a rooster, blowing at the side of its head, presumably try to remove something. I took a photo of a woman who had been teasing her son happily. Her mother, also in the picture, was particularly pleased when I showed her the photo.

      As I walked back up the road toward where the boys had been playing with their tops, I saw them again, across the street, with 2-3 foot tall hand drums. A man who saw me take a picture of two boys with their drums encouraged me to go with them, so I followed, thinking I was going to see band practice. The woman teacher noticed me and also encouraged me along. She explained that the boys would play band until 8.30 and then go into town proper for school. There was the usual broken-English-exchange of "where are you from" "I'm from california" etc. She said her brother had married and moved to Australia...somewhere in there I learned there was going to be a wedding in town later that day. After calling the boys together they each picked up a drum and played along with her as she beat on her pie-tin-sized gong. A man joined in with his voice and his small cymbals and another man watching it all was carrying fire crackers, which I thought was odd. I was handed a drum and encouraged to get in formation. As I walked into place I looked down the hill and realized that just 20 m away were about 40 people, paired up in line, carrying food. I didn't know how they got there but I knew the wedding was going on so I thought they were rehearsing the processional. Then the teacher, the man, and the boys, with me along with them, began to walk up the hill - the boys beating their drums.

      When we reached the restaurant that had been playing the incredibly loud music we stood back and let the rest of the procession pass us. By this time, encouraged by others, I was beating along with the simple beat and skipping the more complicated part. When the fire crackers began to go off my growing suspicion that this was not a rehearsal but was the real wedding was confirmed. Soon I saw the groom with his mother. He was dressed in a while admiral looking suit. The procession filed in, taking their shoes off first, and left the food that they had been carrying in two neat rows. The medium sized room that seemed to be the center of things was not large enough for everyone but this did not appear to be a problem. Many went in and came right out. Many sat on the porch or at the tables set up for the reception. I was encouraged to enter, and after declining/resisting for a bit, I did. The bride and groom were kneeling together with a small bunch of offerings before them. Along a back wall all the food brought by the guests was laid neatly on the ground. (Outside in a corner, the reception food was being prepared.) After a minute I stepped out and sat down, failing to be inconspicuous.

       The tables had simple place settings along with Coke and Sprite or Coke and Fanta. Eventually two cases of Thai whiskey showed up and a few were placed at some of the tables - the affair wouldn't be as minimal as I had been imagining. I was brought a sprite and began to think about leaving as I did not want to intrude any more than I already had.

     I did not know what was happening inside but it was not as demanding of attention as an American wedding. Many outside seemed uninterested in the proceedings, including a group of older men who I suspected had been drinking their whisky since before the bride and groom knelt down. After a brief, light round of applause a girl stood at the window to watch what was going on inside. Along with a few others I stood and looked over her as someone elderly, perhaps a parent, tied some string around the wrist of the bride and then the groom. This act was performed by at least three others. The string was usually dipped in a little water and then, seemingly used to bless the offerings before either the bride or groom held out his or her wrist on a pillow for the string to be tied. After watching this for another minute I left...amazed to have participated in as much as I had.

 

     As for the movie...I mentioned a while back that I had gone to an audition for an American movie and that I didn't expect anything to come of it but the free bottle of water. About a week after I first went in I got an email asking me to come back a few days later (this is why Bet and Lauren went on from Chiang Mai to Phuket before me - I was staying for this second audition). So, I went back. There were about 15 of us, all ages, only one woman, waiting in a room for two hours before the director showed up. We were paired off and one thing led to another and they've asked me to come back to Chiang Mai to participate in a few weeks of boot camp. The movie is about the Vietnam War and the My Lai massacre. I think they want us to look appropriately militaristic in those "sir, yes sir" moments. They haven't told me that I have a role but the boot camp will be paid. My guess is that I might wind up as sort of a foreground extra - the guy next to the guy with a speaking part. I'm not sure what will happen other than Bet leaves tomorrow and I don't. Take care.

Lili - our savior

     I woke up yesterday in Sangkhlaburi with food poisoning and a planned 7-hour bus trip to Bangkok. I pictured having to stop the bus every hour to let my diarrhea run its course. Soon enough I felt so bad that I asked Bet if we could delay our departure and take the 2 pm rather than the 10 am bus. I also started to think about just letting Bet go on her own - but I didn't feel like staying any longer in Sangkhlaburi. And I slept. The immodium kicked in so I wasn't on the pot every hour and with some sleep I felt well enough to go. On the bus I avoided getting car sick (I don't usually get motion sickness, but my stomach was jumbled up and I kept a plastic bag handy) and thankfully, never had to ask for a special stop. (The buses here stop once in a while at a bunch of food carts to let you eat. It's great.)

      So we made our way to Bangkok and met Mike's mom Lili. She is fantastic. She has taken us in to her beautiful home and made us feel very comfortable. After having eaten nothing but one piece of toast all day, the dinner she served was wonderful. And not-Thai. You all know I love Thai food, but after 6 weeks of nothing else, and a bout of food poisoning a western meal was a great relief. We slept on comfortable beds, we had hot showers. Traveling has been amazing but it's very nice to have some of the comforts of home again. Thank you Lili.

I'm not 100% but, as Bet pointed out around 6.30 pm yesterday, I have some color in my skin again.

Bet leaves tomorrow for San Francisco. I'm supposed to head to LA, but I have other plans....

From Lauren in Malaysia

[

Helo from Malaysia!
I haven't forgotten how to spell, the Malays are just kind enough to have a
very similar greeting to our own...making my life a little easier.  I've
traveled from Thailand to Malaysia, traded tuk tuks for trishaws and panang
curry for Pulau Penang, the city where I'm currently staying.  It's a very
modern city, the second largest in Malaysia, yet still very quaint and
colonial.  I had no expectations for this country since it wasn't on my
itinerary until about a week ago and have been very impressed so far with
it's charm.  The people are quite different than Thai's, in appearance as
well as characteristics.  There is much more Chinese influence here and
there is a very large Indian population as well, both of which have added
variety to my diet...much appreciated.
I'm making the plans up as I go, but think that from here I'll travel to
Indonesia for a bit and then around and back up to Malaysian Borneo and
Brunei.  From there I'll catch up with my original plan to see Laos, Vietnam
and Cambodia before spending a few more weeks in Thailand at the end of the
year.  If anyone has any places to recommend as I head south, I would love
to hear.  Diving is supposed to be amazing, so I've got some recommendations
for that, but as far as the rest, I'm kind of in the dark...Lonely Planet
will be guiding the way.
Think about you all a lot and love all the updates on life at home. I've
posted a few more pics from Southern Thailand if you'd like to see:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=19331&l=cf87b&id=592800063
Loves,
 

~Lauren ;-)

]
 

Kanchanaburi (Erawan waterfall) to Sangkhlaburi

Today Bet and I went to the Erawan National Park outside of Kanchanaburi. The park was established to preserve the Erawan waterfall - a spectacular waterfall of many tiers (small falls) over the course of about half a mile. I kept taking pictures because around each bend the sight was even more beautiful than before. The water was very clean which surprised me because many of the falls Lauren and I saw while trekking were composed of brown (dirt, not pollution) water. The bedrock under the falls is limestone and the erosion/dissolution of the limestone gives everything a very light greenish hue. It was incredible. The hike itself was beautiful and following the falls was unbelievable. I liked the park well enough that I'm pretty confident I'm coming back after Bet and I part ways in a few days. I've been strongly thinking of staying in SE Asia for longer - I'd like to see Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam - and I'm already here so the time is right. Tomorrow Bet and I leave Kanchanburi for Sangkhlaburi (north west toward the Burmese border) where we will stay for 3 nights. After that we're supposed to head back to Bangkok for two nights before getting on the plane. I think I'll stay just for one night (this will be with Mike's (Julianna's Mike) mom) before coming back to the Erawan National Park. Then...who knows.

Take care.

Konchanburi

Bet and I took the overnight train from the south toward Bangkok last night. Today we're in Konchanaburi and in a few days we'll head further west to Sanklaburi before heading back to Bangkok at the end of our trip. I"m considering extending my time in SE Asia but haven't made a firm decision  - though it is looking more likely every day. Today we saw the bridge over the river Kwae and tomorrow we'll see some of the museums about it.

Take care.

Don't count your chickens before they hatch

A note about paradise. Apparently I need to do a broader survey of things before I start declaring a winner for that title. A few days ago we arrived at Hat Nopparat Thara. I told Bet that I had claimed the previous two beaches "were paradise, but..." and she interupted with "here we are." The previous beach was a better beach for body surfing, but this beach is even more scenic with limestone cliffs off to the sides and many little limestone islands off the coast. We've done some kayaking and some lazing around. Lauren left us this morning for Malaysia and Bet and I will take the overnight train back to Bangkok tomorrow. From Bangkok we're planning using our last week to head west to Kanchanaburi and Songklaburi near the Burmese border. We can't really believe that our trip is almost over. We've seen so much and had a wonderful time, but it only feels as though we've been here for two weeks, not five. There is a chance I'll stay a bit longer to see Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. If I do there is also a chance that I'll run into Lauren again in Thailand as we both fly out of Bangkok and could imagine a few more days on the beach in our future.

From Lauren [Diving Thailand]

[Hello one and all,

     Hope this finds you well and safe...enjoying the cooler weather and ash free
air.  Mom and I are back from our four day dive trip, which was amazing!  I am
still swaying, but enjoyed every minute of it from the 5 meals a day to the 11
dives where we saw hundreds of kinds of fish, squid, octopus, anemones,
seahorses, crabs, and lobsters (I even had a CLOSE encounter with a leopard
shark...didn't see him until he brushed my shoulder).  We didn't see any of
the famed whale sharks or manta rays, though:-(  Before the dive trip, we
spent three days in Khao Lak, which was one of the places most affected by the
tsunami.  It has bounced back incredibly well and some think it's doing even
better now.  I spent Halloween at a local bar where the "lady boys" had far
better costumes than any of the locals could muster up.  It was a great show.

      We will continue south tomorrow to Krabi area and Ko Phi Phi.  After that my
plans are open.  My friend Tonia (who many of you have met or heard of) has
landed the job of a lifetime at ABC in New York City, so she will not be
joining me for the second half of my trip as planned.  SE Asia anyone?  If you
have any time over the holidays, I would love to have a travel partner!  Really.

      We continue to love things that remind us of home...Jack Johnson plays all
over the place here, Oreos are always at the top of the shopping list, and
we've even found western toilets at many of the places we stay.

      Keep me posted on you!  I love hearing about all your vacations and plans for
the upcoming holidays!

Love,
~Lauren ;-)]

Paradise

     Lauren and Bet left me in Khao Lak while they went SCUBA diving in the Similan Islands. The diving there is world famous, so they're probably having a blast. Khao Lak was a sleepy town with a kick-ass beach. I hadn't been body surfing, or even swimming in the ocean, in over two years so I loved that beach. My bed however was hard as a rock and after three nights I was ready to move on. So, I walked along the beach this morning until I came to the next little town, Bang Niang. I walked up off the beach through a medium sized resort and found an Irish guy who owns a mini mart and rents the rooms above the mini mart for 500 baht (about $15). It's the most I've paid for a room, but it's also the nicest room I've had. I have a king size bed (not hard as a rock), a nice bathroom, a big balcony with a view of the ocean (looking between two resorts that are on the ocean), a mini fridge, and a great location. The resort is large enough that they don't notice me using their beach side showers when I want to get all the sand off my feet or their towel service when I want to get their shower water off my body or their lounge chairs when I want to get my body off my feet. So today I went for a jog and a swim, had dinner for 25 baht - yellow noodle and pork soup - my local favorite, and then went back to that resort's lounge chairs to listen to the waves and watch the lightening in the distance over the ocean.

   A random note on the food. Yes, it's very good, though the Pad Thai sauce isn't as thick as ours. The dishes that we order in American Thai restaurants do exist in very close (much spicier) parallel, but these do not appear to be the dishes the average Thai eats on the average night. Our Thai dishes are the ...haute couture... of thai food. For local Thais it's often a basic noodle soup with a little meat or tofu, maybe some rice with the soup, usually ordered from a stand/cart with some plastic chairs and tables. At these establishments there is a very basic broth to the soup, not the coconut sauce we think of, and the spice - the red pepper - is added by the customer at his or her table.

Take care everyone.

This is not Thailand at its greatest

Thai mariachi: Abba's Dancing Queen